Kurma

Last night's Indian-themed class in Footscray was all about focus, communication, camaraderie and fun. Andrew has arranged many a class in the past, and last night's was very special.

The raised preparation area gave a natural auditorium effect to the proceedings, and made for easy access and observation.

Everyone was very enthusiastic and used their considerable kitchen skills to bring our cooking adventure to it's grand culinary consummation. The feast yielded some of the best flavours I have ever tasted.

The piquant Granny Smith apple chutney was especially memorable - too hot to bear, but too sweet to resist, a hint of sourness with aromatic cinnamon and nutmeg overtones, and rich caramelised sweetness giving way to the fire from mouth-stinging dried red and fresh green chilis.

As a gracious host, and to facilitate smooth flow, Andrew spent a great deal of the time in the pot-washing room in true humble kitchen assistant style. A splendid night, one of my best for a long time. Many thanks to Andrew for making it all possible.

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When I was younger, so much younger than today, I thought that the classic dish of peas, panir cheese and tomatoes was called Mata Panir. You probably know that mata is Hindi for mother, and panir refers to traditional fresh cheese. I used to nickname the dish 'the old cheese', a reference to English slang for one's wife.

Anyway, I've been meaning to share that piece of trivia with someone for a while. In reality, of course, the dish is called Matar Panir, matar meaning peas.

I was reminded of all of this this morning after receiving a letter from Kavita in India who asked:

"How to make mutter panir?". Mutter is in fact how the word matar is pronounced.

Here's the recipe:

Home-made Sizzling Panir Cheese Nuggets with Fresh Tomatoes, Herbs and Peas (Matar Panir)

This dish originates in Punjab, northern India. However, it is well known all over India, and there are hundreds of variations of the same dish. But the same main ingredients are always there: peas and panir cheese in a spiced, minted tomato sauce. Here's a delicious version that can be served with any meal, anytime. It especially lends itself to special feasts and dinners and can be kept warm for some time, actually improving the flavour of the dish. Serves 5 or 6.

2 tablespoons ghee or oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
5 teaspoons cumin seeds
3 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 or 2 hot green chilies, minced
8 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced fine
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon ground fennel
½ teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon brown sugar
3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves or parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves
homemade curd cheese (panir) made from (2 litres) milk, pressed until firm and cut into small cubes ghee or oil for deep-frying
2 cups cooked fresh or frozen peas
2 cups whey or water
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1½ teaspoons salt

Heat 2 tablespoons ghee or oil in a 5-litre/quart saucepan over moderate heat.

Saute the mustard seeds until they crackle. Add the cumin seeds and stir until they darken a few shades. Add the ginger and green chilies and saute momentarily. Add the chopped tomatoes, powdered spices, sugar, and half the herbs. Partially cover and, stirring occasionally, simmer for about 15 minutes or until the tomatoes break down and turn pulpy.

Heat the ghee or oil in a pan or wok over moderately high heat. When hot (185°C/365°F), deep-fry the cubes of panir cheese a batch at a time until golden brown. Remove and drain.

Add the peas and water or whey to the tomato and spice mixture. Boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook uncovered for 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and salt and mix well; then add the panir cubes and simmer for 5 more minutes. Before serving, add the remaining herbs. Serve hot.

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